HawaiiStories: No Good Italian

April 08, 2002

No Good Italian

The family just dined out at the new Boston's North End Pizza Bakery in Manoa, one of two new locations (after the one in Waikiki didn't work out). I love Boston's, and the folks I know from the East Coast also give it a thumb's up.

But it got me to thinking about what a co-worker (from New York) says, time and time again. "There are no good Italian restaurants in Hawaii." Is this true? Apart from pizza (if it counts at all), are you out of luck looking for decent Italian eats in the islands?

I mean, I like Angelo Pietro's, but that's neo-Italian. We've eaten at Assagio, and we liked it well enough, but I'm not sure if we're qualified to judge anyway. Jen has heard good things about Verbano... And some place in Waikele?

Though we're apparently a town that gets almost all Asian cuisine's right, how are we doing with European menus?

Posted by Prophet Zarquon at April 08, 2002 10:23 PM

Comments

Posted by Lisa on April 8, 2002 11:02 PM:

I'm not sure if I count as an expert, but I've had Italian in Palo Alto and throughout the South Bay at reputedly good places.
Try Bucca di Beppo- they're all over SoBay, and recently opened at Ward (I haven't tried that one, but I've heard it's good). Bring lots of hungry people, because they don't mess around there.
I like Assagio's in Kailua better than the one in HiKai, actually.
On the lower price end, Bravo at Pearlridge is good in a cheap, Olive Garden kind of way, and their garlic rolls are even better than OG's breadsticks.

Hey, Ryan, I just had a thought. For awhile I've wanted to do (and started to write) local restaurant reviews.. would it be hard to set up a basic MT site specifically for that?

Posted by Lisa on April 8, 2002 11:03 PM:

I forgot to mention- my Italian friend swears by Auntie Pasto's, if that helps any :)

Posted by Ryan on April 8, 2002 11:38 PM:

Ah, Auntie Pasto's - how could I forget? Lines out the door every night. I didn't know Bravo was any good, though, thanks. (I always just knew it as "that place under Anna Miller's.")

And Lisa, if it would get you writing, I'd be more than happy to build it!

Posted by Tom on April 9, 2002 12:26 AM:

Here in Hilo we had a great restaurant that was called "Topo Gigio's". It was one of the best Italian restuarants on the Island. But they got sued by Topo Gigio's on Oahu over the name so then they became ... "Emilio's". They started losing business soon after that so then they became ... *non-existant*.

There was another place out in Pahoa called Godmothers that Ali and I loved to dine at a few years ago. I don't know what happened but our last visit this past December was our last. I ordered a Lasagna (my favourite) and it tasted like they put a hamburger steak plate lunch in between the noodles. It was really gross.

About the only places we have left here on the Hilo side are Pescatore and Cafe Pesto.

Posted by Stella on April 9, 2002 12:29 AM:

Thanks on the heads-up on Buca di Beppo; I'm already looking at going there for my birthday... in a few weeks. ;)

For some reason, though, I've developed some sort of aversion to Italian restaurants out here - maybe my taste buds were getting acclimated once more to Asian food, I don't know. (Aggravating things further: the fact that I rarely ate any real Italian food when I went to Rome, because everything there was so ridiculously expensive and I had to humor my rice-loving parents for not wanting to eat pasta.) The last GREAT Italian place I've been to, so far, is Verbano's - and yes, it's as good as they say it is.

Still, I know from bad Italian - as evidenced by my decreased patronage of Scoozee's (I only go there for the sandwiches now, and even then I still think Beau Soleil does it much better). Right now I'm preparing my (critical) knives for Mamo's All You Can Eat Pizza, which will open soon on the spot of the old Burger King at YMCA Atherton (corner of University and Metcalf) - even though its sister coffee shop, Volcano Joe's, has acquitted itself pretty nicely on the premises.

Speaking of pizza: There's this out-of-the-way place out in Salt Lake called Big Kahuna's which does some amazing stuff with pizza. All I can say is this: They even managed to make it work with kalua pig. ;)

Posted by Haken on April 9, 2002 3:23 AM:

"Good" is a relative term. One thing is for sure, I've been to Venice, Italy and I've tried real Italian food--it taste nothing like what we have here in Hawai'i. Now, I haven't been to New York, so I don't know what good Italian food tastes like over there, but one thing is for sure, in Hawai'i, you just can't make authentic good Italian food because we don't have the good Italian ingredients to make good authentic Italian food.

Posted by Jas on April 9, 2002 8:06 AM:

Buca di Beppo has the *best* garlic mashed potatoes and the ymmiest Tiramisu I've ever had, but watch out for the ravioli. If you don't like goat cheese, you definitely won't like the dish.

I've never been to any Italian restaraunts in Hawai'i, unfortunately. My boyfriend insists on Zippy's every time we visit (and he considers their spaghetti Italian food... :) ).

Posted by Vivi on April 9, 2002 8:57 AM:

My family always insists on going to the Old Spaghetti Factory at Ward Warehouse. The food's decent but not spectacular. I've never been to any other Italian restaurant, although Bucca di Beppos looks extremely promising...

Posted by Linkmeister on April 9, 2002 9:06 AM:

Albero's in Aiea is very good, or so my resident Italian expert says. Mom still raves about their veal. The other nice thing about Albero's is that if one of the party is not particularly fond of pasta, there are other items, too. Auntie Pasto's on Beretania is good, at least for lunch.

Posted by honukai on April 9, 2002 9:27 AM:

Donato's in Manoa is the only authentic Italian in town. It used to be by Kahala Mall, next to The Olive Tree, but the two owners, Troy and Donato had a falling out. Donato (the cook) moved to Manoa Marketplace and Troy opened up with pac-rim fare.

As far as I know, Donato's was the only restaurant to ever get all 4 stars in Nadine Kam's column, and being that hubby is full Italian, we tried it out.

It took me some getting used to (what? no pasta with this?), but now I know what real Italian is.

On the other spectrum, meaning "other" Italian restaurants here, I agree that Assagio in Kailua is better than the others. But have to admit Paesano in Manoa is even better. For atmosphere and sheer qty, Bucca is up there, while Zia's in Kailua or Kaneohe is pretty good too!

Stella, if you go to Bucca's for your b'day, ask for the "Pope Room." I think it seats like 10 people...You won't be disappointed, I promise!

Posted by Jen on April 9, 2002 12:04 PM:

It's funny you should mention Scoozee's, Stella. Ryan hates Scoozee's. With a passion. I don't mind 'em, though. And I totally forgot about Paesano. It's owned by the same guy who own's Assagio, I hear.

Posted by honukai on April 9, 2002 12:39 PM:

I hate Scoozees too. Last time I ate there, the food tasted like Chef-Boyardee and there was a rock (yes, rock) in my sauce. I'm surprised they're still in business.

Assagio and Paesano are two different owners (and both Vietnamese). They were trained under the same chef at Casagnola's (the original). Actually, one chef took off and opened Paesano, one to Assagio, one to Verbano, and another to Salerno. Which explains why they all have a similar style.

And that's the Italian history lesson for the day:)

Posted by Ryan on April 9, 2002 1:31 PM:

Gah. Scoozee's. If you didn't notice, the link for Scoozee's that Stella posted is to my "review" of that place, and in fact, that page is the second result you get when you search for Scoozee's on Google. (No doubt if I ever show up there again, there'll be an unusually high body fluid level in my entree.)

I forgot about Donato's! I have eaten there, and loved it, and did also notice that it was different (and thus likely more authentic) from what I'd grown up thinking "Italian food" was like. Good stuff. In fact, I think I promised Jen more than two years ago that we'd go back there.

And Old Spaghetti Factory! A guilty, personal favorite, especially now as they're kid friendly, and also because until recently, my cousin was one of the managers there.

But. Honukai? Casagnola's? Is that the place out in Hawaii Kai? If so, that restaurant has the unfortunate designation as being the source of the worst food poisoning case I've ever seen. My entire family, and several coworkers, rendered almost useless after a Christmas party there. We were filing reports with the Department of Health and everything!

Posted by honukai on April 9, 2002 1:47 PM:

Hence "The Original" Casagnola's. It used to be at Manoa Marketplace before Paesano. There was some sort of fight with the lease and Mr Casagnola (whatever) moved to Waikiki on Ala Moana Blvd by the Parc Hotel. There his workers left and opened up their own restaurants.

He disappeared for years, and then resurfaced in Niu. I haven't eaten there and from the sounds of it, never will.

How the hell do I know the history of all this???? You'd think I was Nadine Kam:)

Posted by Linkmeister on April 9, 2002 3:43 PM:

"How the hell do I know the history of all this???? You'd think I was Nadine Kam:)"

Well? What with screen names... :)

Posted by bunny on April 10, 2002 7:19 AM:

lol

Posted by Marci on August 29, 2002 9:34 AM:

I need help remember the name of an Italian restaurant that was in Ohau back in '88. My husband and I lived in Ewa Beach and ate there one very romantic night. It was by the Pearlridge (?) mall and began with a "C" but neither of us can remember it. Any help?

Posted by Linkmeister on August 30, 2002 7:54 PM:

Lemme think about it; I've been living above Pearlridge for 24 years, so...

Posted by Marci on September 4, 2002 3:17 AM:

I'd appreciate it. I'm almost positive it was by the mall. There is (was?) a drive in theater nearby also? We've been trying to think of it and just can't. I don't even remember how good the food really was, but the ambiance and the evening were great!

Posted by Fat Jeff on September 4, 2002 12:54 PM:

If you are a fan of Northern Italian fare there is a GEM of a place on King Street between Piikoi & Keaumoku Streets called Mediteranio. It's simple, very tasty food. Pasta mixed with various vegtables or meats...and come to think of it...I've never encountered red sauce there once. It's a small place with a cozy atmosphere...very romantic...good place to make a lasting impression on your new sweety

Posted by Ryan on September 4, 2002 4:41 PM:

Man, I grew up at the top of Kaonohi Street, which is the main north-south drag for Pearlridge, and I'm going nuts trying to figure it out!

With a 'C', you say? Can't be Chi Chi's (that was Mexican). Can't be Monterrey Bay Canners. The restaurant/bar below Anna Miller's is Italian-esque, I think, but (as mentioned above) it's called Bravo now - what was it called before?

Posted by Marci on September 9, 2002 4:10 AM:

does Cappacino's sound right to anyone?

Posted by Linkmeister on September 9, 2002 8:57 PM:

Ryan, before Bravo it was a steak house called the Round House; my sister worked there until it was renovated and turned into Italian. Damn, I saw her today; I could have asked her, as she knows more about the Pearlridge restaurant biz than anyone else I know. She still works at Buzz's. I'll try to remember to ask.

Posted by Sara on August 26, 2003 2:22 PM:

Im from Boston and just got back from Oahu, and I thought Bucca di Beppos was a great Italian restaurant......The food comes in huge proportions (meatballs as big as your head) and the atmosphere is great. I really enjoyed it.

Posted by Sara on August 26, 2003 2:37 PM:

I think the restaurant your thinking of is Cappricios

Posted by Elise on January 21, 2004 2:54 PM:

i think these recipies are the worst recipies ive ever tasted and i think that if i ever want italian food ever again, i will go to the olive garden or to actual italy

Posted by Ryan on January 21, 2004 2:58 PM:

Recipes? What recipes?

I'd try the Olive Garden... if we had one here. (I wish we did.) And going to actual Italy? How's that for a dining-out budget? Whew.

Posted by Jay on July 19, 2004 4:37 PM:

Albero in Aiea is probabbly the best around. Its cheap, friendly, quiet, and best of all, the food is great. Also try kit n kitchen if you want some asian flavor.

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No Good Italian

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